Works in Progress
Double Breasted Waistcoat
Pale yellow silk taffeta, white silesia lining, white beetled linen interfacing. Two welt pockets, laid-on lapels. 6 × 3 buttoning, vintage mother-of-pearl buttons.
Drafted from: The Modern Tailor, Outfitter, and Clothier, vol. 1, edited by A. A. Whife, et al. (Caxton Publishing, 1949), pp. 78–84.
'Canvasses' basted to foreparts. The lapels have been pressed into shape and arranged on top of the foreparts to give an idea of the final garment.
Beetled linen 'canvasses.' The pad-stitched, second layer on the chest is intended to prevent wrinkles in the hollow below the shoulder that would be noticeable in the taffeta fabric.
The welt pockets on the outside of the garment. The welts have been tacked with small felling stitches along the edges and visible prick stitches.
The welt pockets from the interior of the garment. The pockets have been cut through the linen interfacing to prevent the pocket bag from showing though the outer fabric. The tacks have been reinforced with linen, on one side extending into the side seam.
Linen strips basted and serged down along the edges. The armhole has been catch-stitched to the canvas.
The lapels basted on the exterior and the opening edge turned. The bottom facing has also been basted into place.
The intersection of the facings, felled together.
The linings basted into place. The left-side lining has a patch pocket with a button.
Evening Cloak
Black barathea outer, red wool lining. One angled internal pocket with flap and button. Rayon cord with tassels, frogging at back. Pad-stitched Prussian collar, covered with velvet, with hook and eye.
More photos to be added shortly.
Linen canvas at centre front.
Front facing attached.
Red wool lining attached.
Close-up of angled lining pocket.
Construction in-progress.
Frogging at back basted in place...
Frogging stitched down.
"Prussian" collar, pad-stitched and pressed.